Steve Colello replies: I use Waterlox as my go-to finish when I don’t spray General Finishes EnduroVar. I only have experience with satin finish for both products and I use the same finishing process for both. After the finish is fully dry, I apply MinWax Paste Finishing Wax to the surface. I apply the wax with super fine (0000) steel wool. I like the steel wool because it has a little abrasive that levels out any dust nibs. A couple of coats buffed out with a soft rag and you have a nice surface to the touch.
Elliot Savitzky replies: I have used a couple of different waxes on top of Waterlox. Mylands is a soft wax that you apply and rub out. I also spray Goddard’s wax which is a beeswax and lemon oil solution. Both work well. I think almost any wax will do. Others to consider include Briwax (it contains toluene so be careful not to inhale, Odies, Renaissance, Epifanes and even Johnson Paste Wax. All are good. Try a couple and see what works for you.
Bob Couch replies: For surfaces that require good protection, Waterlox is my go-to choice. Like any varnish topcoat, it needs to be rubbed out and maybe waxed. You’ll need make sure you have a sufficient finish to accept wet sanding with 400, 800 and 1000 grit to level the finish. My preference is always a “soft gloss” finish.
To get that, I will rub it out further with a good quality oil-free 000 steel wool or gray colored Scotch-Brite pad. Rub with the grain using a soft block to keep the abrasion even. I use a felt sanding block for this. If I’m going to wax, I will apply the wax then buff the wax out with the 0000 steel wool then buff with a soft cloth. You will get a beautiful soft sheen with this method. If you want a bit more gloss, rub it again with a white Scotch-Brite pad.